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Varnish
Is a popular choice for DIY enthusiasts but it is not the best type of wood finish you can use. Varnish is a polyurethane combined with a wood stain, so the stain tends to sit on the surface of the timber rather than being absorbed into it. This will leave a streaky finish that looks terrible. Remember that each coat applied will darken the wood further. To maintain a light finish, it may be wise to apply a coat of clear varnish as a first coat or after the desired shade has been achieved. For a durable finish, always apply a thinned first coat so that it will 'key' into the timber.The only real advantage of varnish is it will seal the wood but not a professionals choice. For better wood finish results keep reading.
Is a popular choice for DIY enthusiasts but it is not the best type of wood finish you can use. Varnish is a polyurethane combined with a wood stain, so the stain tends to sit on the surface of the timber rather than being absorbed into it. This will leave a streaky finish that looks terrible. Remember that each coat applied will darken the wood further. To maintain a light finish, it may be wise to apply a coat of clear varnish as a first coat or after the desired shade has been achieved. For a durable finish, always apply a thinned first coat so that it will 'key' into the timber.The only real advantage of varnish is it will seal the wood but not a professionals choice. For better wood finish results keep reading.
There are many products available for finishes, some very hard and some quite soft. Some will give more protection than others, but some pieces of furniture don't get very hard use, so will do fine with a less protective finish.
Wood Stain
Staining wood furniture or wood fitments is generally a necessity. If you don't stain the piece it will quite often look uneven in colour or kind of blotchy. An exception to this is a clear finish over light color wood that you want to have a natural appearance. The image opposite shows just a few different wood stain colours. The colours will vary from the various brands available. Also the type of timber being stained will absorb the stains differently.
Staining wood furniture or wood fitments is generally a necessity. If you don't stain the piece it will quite often look uneven in colour or kind of blotchy. An exception to this is a clear finish over light color wood that you want to have a natural appearance. The image opposite shows just a few different wood stain colours. The colours will vary from the various brands available. Also the type of timber being stained will absorb the stains differently.
The Finish, Flexing
Your furniture or fitments will expand and contract all day long. This is very slow moving so you can't see it happening. As temperatures change, the whole piece expands with heat and contracts with less heat.
Exposed bare wood is very susceptible to moisture changes. If you have electric baseboard or forced air heating it's very dry.
Every time someone takes a bath or shower, even with venting, or when you fix meals there is a teriffic uprise in humidity.
The exposed bare wood expands, then the air dries from the heating system, so there is constant expansion and contraction, but the other side with a finish sealing it isn't as susceptible to the ups and downs of humidity all day.
The warp and wane of the bare wood puts stress on the finish and joints on furniture. Natural finishes, lacquer, shellac, oils, etc. are flexible and can withstand the constant stretching, shrinking, and twisting. That's part of the reason for joints loosening and why hard inflexible polyurethane will crack along a joint line.
Your furniture or fitments will expand and contract all day long. This is very slow moving so you can't see it happening. As temperatures change, the whole piece expands with heat and contracts with less heat.
Exposed bare wood is very susceptible to moisture changes. If you have electric baseboard or forced air heating it's very dry.
Every time someone takes a bath or shower, even with venting, or when you fix meals there is a teriffic uprise in humidity.
The exposed bare wood expands, then the air dries from the heating system, so there is constant expansion and contraction, but the other side with a finish sealing it isn't as susceptible to the ups and downs of humidity all day.
The warp and wane of the bare wood puts stress on the finish and joints on furniture. Natural finishes, lacquer, shellac, oils, etc. are flexible and can withstand the constant stretching, shrinking, and twisting. That's part of the reason for joints loosening and why hard inflexible polyurethane will crack along a joint line.
Polyurethane
Although there have been improvements in polyurethane, it still is a hard plastic coating that doesn't have much give. If you are working on an antique and you use sandpaper and polyurethane, you no longer have a proveable antique and the antique value will drop through the floor.
Although there have been improvements in polyurethane, it still is a hard plastic coating that doesn't have much give. If you are working on an antique and you use sandpaper and polyurethane, you no longer have a proveable antique and the antique value will drop through the floor.
Oil Finishes
There are many different kinds of oil finishes, some are easy to use and some are very time consuming.
Linseed Oil, Boiled
Linseed Oil was the choice of the old timers.
I put the boiled after the linseed oil to draw attention to it rather than to indicate that there will be other types covered. The other type is raw linseed oil, it will never dry, but will become gummy and sticky, so be sure to get BOILED linseeed oil if you decide on that kind of finish.
Linseed oil gives a fantastic finish, but you need a year to apply it. The general rule of thumb for a linseed oil finish is once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year. The finish was usually french polished once a year after that. That's a lot of work.
There are many different kinds of oil finishes, some are easy to use and some are very time consuming.
Linseed Oil, Boiled
Linseed Oil was the choice of the old timers.
I put the boiled after the linseed oil to draw attention to it rather than to indicate that there will be other types covered. The other type is raw linseed oil, it will never dry, but will become gummy and sticky, so be sure to get BOILED linseeed oil if you decide on that kind of finish.
Linseed oil gives a fantastic finish, but you need a year to apply it. The general rule of thumb for a linseed oil finish is once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year. The finish was usually french polished once a year after that. That's a lot of work.
Other Oils
The other oils are much easier to use. Danish Oil and Tung Oil are two popular oil finishes. They are very easy to use and come in clear and in pigmented colors. Just follow the directions on the container, but double the number or coats they recommend. They aren't as durable as some other finishes, but are very easy to repair. If you get a light scratch in the finish, just grab a cloth and apply another coat of the finish and generally it's all taken care of.
The other oils are much easier to use. Danish Oil and Tung Oil are two popular oil finishes. They are very easy to use and come in clear and in pigmented colors. Just follow the directions on the container, but double the number or coats they recommend. They aren't as durable as some other finishes, but are very easy to repair. If you get a light scratch in the finish, just grab a cloth and apply another coat of the finish and generally it's all taken care of.
Shellac
Shellac is a good durable finish, except that it is very susceptible to water and alcohol. Alcohol dissolves shellac.
Shellac is a good durable finish, except that it is very susceptible to water and alcohol. Alcohol dissolves shellac.
Lacquer
Last, but not least, is my favorite, lacquer. Lacquer is a very durable finish, is flexible and is very easy to keep up.
Regular lacquer can only be applied with spray equipment, but it isn't necessary to have expensive spray equipment, you can get some reasonably priced airless spray equipment. You can use spray cans of lacquer and get a nice smooth even finish. There is a product called brushing lacquer, which is treated to extend it's drying time so it can be brushed. Lacquer is one thing that is fast, but is also good.
About the only mistake you can make using brushing lacquer is to apply it too thinly or to overbrush. If you apply a good liberal coat and let it dry properly, it will flow together so there are no brush marks or other imperfections. If you do have imperfections dust or bugs, it is very easy to work them out with very fine sandpaper and 0000 steel wool.
Like with all products be sure to read the directions on the container and follow them for best results.
Last, but not least, is my favorite, lacquer. Lacquer is a very durable finish, is flexible and is very easy to keep up.
Regular lacquer can only be applied with spray equipment, but it isn't necessary to have expensive spray equipment, you can get some reasonably priced airless spray equipment. You can use spray cans of lacquer and get a nice smooth even finish. There is a product called brushing lacquer, which is treated to extend it's drying time so it can be brushed. Lacquer is one thing that is fast, but is also good.
About the only mistake you can make using brushing lacquer is to apply it too thinly or to overbrush. If you apply a good liberal coat and let it dry properly, it will flow together so there are no brush marks or other imperfections. If you do have imperfections dust or bugs, it is very easy to work them out with very fine sandpaper and 0000 steel wool.
Like with all products be sure to read the directions on the container and follow them for best results.
Web site last updated: 4/01/2009