<<Go Back
Home
About us
Contact us
Help
Kitchens - Worktops - Skirting boards - Dado rail - Picture rail - Doors - Door Frames - Windows - Wood flooring - Fitted wardrobes - Loft conversions - Staircases - Spindles - Traditional & Trussed roofs - Floor joists - Decking - Custom joinery - Made to measure - Domestic & Commercial. Service available for Sheffield, Barnsley, Doncaster, Rotherham, Chesterfield. Professional Carpenter and Joiner Service Sheffield, South Yorkshire
woodFX.co.uk
woodFX.co.uk


There are many products available for finishes, some very hard and some quite soft. Some will give more protection than others, but some pieces of furniture don't get very hard use, so will do fine with a less protective finish.

Wood Stain

Staining wood furniture or wood fitments is generally a necessity. If you don't stain the piece it will quite often look uneven in color or kind of blotchy. An exception to this is a clear finish over light color wood that you want to have a natural appearance.

The Finish, Flexing

Your furniture does a boogey woogey all day long. The only thing is that it's drummer is very slow moving so you can't see it happening. As temperatures change, the whole piece expands with heat and contracts with less heat.

Exposed bare wood is very susceptible to moisture changes. If you have electric baseboard or forced air heating it's very dry.

Every time someone takes a bath or shower, even with venting, or when you fix meals there is a teriffic uprise in humidity.

The exposed bare wood expands, then the air dries from the heating system, so there is constant expansion and contraction, but the other side with a finish sealing it isn't as susceptible to the ups and downs of humidity all day.

The warp and wane of the bare wood puts stress on the finish and joints on furniture. Natural finishes, lacquer, shellac, oils, etc. are flexible and can withstand the constant stretching, shrinking, and twisting. That's part of the reason for joints loosening and why hard inflexible polyurethane will crack along a joint line.


Polyurethane

Although there have been improvements in polyurethane, it still is a hard plastic coating that doesn't have much give. If you are working on an antique and you use sandpaper and polyurethane, you no longer have a proveable antique and the antique value will drop through the floor.

Oil Finishes

There are many different kinds of oil finishes, some are easy to use and some are very time consuming.

Linseed Oil, Boiled
Linseed Oil was the choice of the old timers.

I put the boiled after the linseed oil to draw attention to it rather than to indicate that there will be other types covered. The other type is raw linseed oil, it will never dry, but will become gummy and sticky, so be sure to get BOILED linseeed oil if you decide on that kind of finish.

Linseed oil gives a fantastic finish, but you need a year to apply it. The general rule of thumb for a linseed oil finish is once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year. The finish was usually french polished once a year after that. That's a lot of work.


Other Oils

The other oils are much easier to use. Danish Oil and Tung Oil are two popular oil finishes. They are very easy to use and come in clear and in pigmented colors. Just follow the directions on the container, but double the number or coats they recommend. They aren't as durable as some other finishes, but are very easy to repair. If you get a light scratch in the finish, just grab a cloth and apply another coat of the finish and generally it's all taken care of.

Shellac

Shellac is a good durable finish, except that it is very susceptible to water and alcohol. Alcohol dissolves shellac.


Lacquer

Last, but not least, is my favorite, lacquer. Lacquer is a very durable finish, is flexible and is very easy to keep up.

Regular lacquer can only be applied with spray equipment, but it isn't necessary to have expensive spray equipment, you can get some reasonably priced airless spray equipment. You can use spray cans of lacquer and get a nice smooth even finish. There is a product called brushing lacquer, which is treated to extend it's drying time so it can be brushed. Lacquer is one thing that is fast, but is also good.

About the only mistake you can make using brushing lacquer is to apply it too thinly or to overbrush. If you apply a good liberal coat and let it dry properly, it will flow together so there are no brush marks or other imperfections. If you do have imperfections dust or bugs, it is very easy to work them out with very fine sandpaper and 0000 steel wool.

Like with all products be sure to read the directions on the container and follow them for best results.
  Our Services
  Door sizes
  Timber Floors
  Laminate Floors
  Wood Finish
  Timber Decay
  Roof Structures
  Metric Converter
  Useful Links
Quality Craftsmanship
  Sitemap
  Portfolio